- a no time for cameras so thought this is close enough
Ok Mobette’s,
Tuesday – the day three of us head out to get some waves – what a morning – after a big weekend, for me that is – Tri season has finished and so did I – another challenge conquered.
Haven’t surfed the reef in ages – at 8.54am I received a text message from ACTurv
“Surf Diamond Reef great! Coming??”
Well I’d had just showered, washed and blow dried my hair.... all ready for a hard slog working on the computer..... What’s a girl to do...... Get amongst it like any one would, and I did. Nice full waves, first wave, it’s been a while, so a couple of strong paddles and up I pop, easy as, carve some turns lefts and rights, the wave continues, wow, what a feeling – a smile, a grin appears on the face and wow, cut back off the wave and paddle out to do it again.
Next wave, Sullo says, “it’s yours, get in the zone”, it was a good wave, again I paddle and pop up, wow, this is big – fast and full – wooo hooo – carve a few turns, it goes on and on, now the white wash is catching me, wave closes out, but I keep riding – the power, the beauty of the sea....... the grin is bigger this time. I paddle out again, to see ACTurv and Jules catch one in together – what a morning. Got out the back, behind the break, the blokes were impressed – they even said so – said the wave’s face was 8-9 foot – it was bigger than me (I’m 5’3”) – ahhh, now we girls know that blokes don’t go around and say things like that!, especially to you out there behind the break. Now I’m sitting here ready to start work feeling like nothing else matters..... I can still see the wave, the sun glistening across the face of the wave, the warm water..... good friends – at peace with the world.......
Ok Mobette’s,
Tuesday – the day three of us head out to get some waves – what a morning – after a big weekend, for me that is – Tri season has finished and so did I – another challenge conquered.
Haven’t surfed the reef in ages – at 8.54am I received a text message from ACTurv
“Surf Diamond Reef great! Coming??”
Well I’d had just showered, washed and blow dried my hair.... all ready for a hard slog working on the computer..... What’s a girl to do...... Get amongst it like any one would, and I did. Nice full waves, first wave, it’s been a while, so a couple of strong paddles and up I pop, easy as, carve some turns lefts and rights, the wave continues, wow, what a feeling – a smile, a grin appears on the face and wow, cut back off the wave and paddle out to do it again.
Next wave, Sullo says, “it’s yours, get in the zone”, it was a good wave, again I paddle and pop up, wow, this is big – fast and full – wooo hooo – carve a few turns, it goes on and on, now the white wash is catching me, wave closes out, but I keep riding – the power, the beauty of the sea....... the grin is bigger this time. I paddle out again, to see ACTurv and Jules catch one in together – what a morning. Got out the back, behind the break, the blokes were impressed – they even said so – said the wave’s face was 8-9 foot – it was bigger than me (I’m 5’3”) – ahhh, now we girls know that blokes don’t go around and say things like that!, especially to you out there behind the break. Now I’m sitting here ready to start work feeling like nothing else matters..... I can still see the wave, the sun glistening across the face of the wave, the warm water..... good friends – at peace with the world.......