Sick of minding the kids on the beach while hubby sits behind the break pretending not to see you frantically waving in sign language that you want to go home? Have you envied him the one blissful task of of searching the horizon for a wave, while you're at home prising siblings apart and trying to solve the mystery of "who started it?"
That was me until 2 years ago when I decided to find out what I was missing out on. My youngest was old enough to sit on the beach and watch while a bunch of like minded women we call the MOB (Mothers on Boards) paddled into the foam.
When its just the MOB, its bliss. No testosterone to paddle through, no egos breaking on our heads, just some good ole girls who want to have a laugh and maybe learn to surf. We help each other out with suggestions and helpful hints and everyone knows that nothing is too stupid. After all, its playtime!
And, of course, we WOO-HOO!
We have progressed (a little) since those early days and on any given morning there will be text messages zapping around to see who is up for a surf. This morning Annie and I had a look at a local spot known (to us) as Bill's track. Unfortunately there was plenty of swell but it just didn't look MOB user friendly - inconsistent break and plenty of potential to get mightily dumped. Plus I am nursing a foot injury (how on earth can you bang your foot on the sand bank so hard as you are exiting the surf that it feels like toes are broken??) so I am happy to wait another day.
Injuries? I would love to hear about your surfing injuries! I already have a Harry Potter like scar on my forehead that required 10 stitches! (The doctor who stitched me up suggested I send a photo of it into a surf mag but I didnt' think "Gash of the month" was a title I could be proud of.) I wish I could say I was riding a 6 foot wave above a gnarly reef when it happened ... it was more like 1/2 foot stupid piddler! The scar is much more impressive than the story - will post a photo of it. I can see a gallery of bruises, bumps, scars and stitches coming up...hopefully not mine.
SM
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