Got seriously shown up today.
I went surfing before work this morn with another surfermum and man, she was on fire! Champagnekate knows her local break! This was a lesson for a mere out-a-towner...
We considered, we ummed, we ahhed, and we finally plunged into the surf at Diamond right near the rip. "Glorious deep water," I thought. "Keep me away from that crunchy sandbar!"
We got out easy enough and before I knew it we were both paddling for our first wave. My first fumble was forgiveable enough (I thought), my hands slipped off as I went to push up (Husband's slippery board!) and I splatted the side of my face into the wave. I came up spluttering as Champagnekate was still hooting along the righthander into the rip!
The next one was mine, I thought.
Paddle, paddle, paddle, push up...push up...missed it! I blame my lead suit. I had been wearing the short arms and legs up until today and the steamer felt a little...heavy. You know how a poor workman blames his tools? That might be me.
"Come over here", said Champagnekate, "and I'll show you how it's done." She made me paddle over to the sandbank where I nearly kamikazied into the sandbar while she took off on a pearler, looking back at me with a wave and a grin.
You know how some days you are just unstopppable? And sometimes you are just a little piece of flesh, foam and fibreglass floating around on the ocean?
At least the water was warm.
SM
Hmmm I know that rip, and of course that dreaded sandbank!
ReplyDeleteAfter a looong, protracted and at times, heated discussion with my eight year old on the benefits of research when writing a speech, I threw caution to the wind and paddled out at that very same place. At least I was in good company with other surfer mums!!
The only difference was... I was on my pat malone. Yep just me, the board and a squillion bait fish- not to mention the odd three footer smashing into me.
Fortunately for me, half of Diamond arrived, when they too realized it was offshore and smooth as ..
The only problem was,I wasn't so sure I was ready to have witnesses to me, floundering about copping hefty waves, fair up the kiester....Thank god I have no shame.
I know exactly how it feels SM, being that tiny piece of flesh, (somewhat shaken) in the ocean. Today was definitely NOT my day..
Grommie