Husband, Surferboy and I had the place to ourselves for about an hour this morning. There were some rippers peeling around the corner - most way too big for this chicken-surfermum. I got one good screamer and managed to skim past a rock in the shallows, which put the wind up me! But mostly I was paddling on the spot while the wave sucked back toward the take off rock before I became too tired to put in real effort when it was needed.
Then the big boys came out to play. All ten of em at once. Great surfers who start way out around the corner and skirt around those rocks near the pool and spray you as they fly past. Nice if you can do it!
I think I'm a bit outa practice. Hope I can hold my own come the Girls Weekend!
This is the calm before the storm.
I expect it's madness out there now.
SM
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